Artificial grass installed in Midland faces a particular set of challenges: intense summer heat, thin sandy soil over a hard caliche layer, spring winds, and the occasional heavy downpour that turns a poorly prepared yard into a muddy or odorous mess. The difference between a turf installation that lasts and one that fails often comes down to what lies beneath the surface. This guide explains the infill, drainage, base preparation and finishing details that separate a properly built installation from a shortcut job, so you can understand what to ask for and what to inspect.
Whether you are converting a Bermuda lawn that has thinned out and turned straw-colored, creating a dog area that does not smell or puddle, preparing a patio or pool surround, or planning a residential artificial grass installation, the foundation and the infill are where quality is decided. This reference covers the materials, the techniques, and the written specifications that matter.
Turf Infill Options: Silica, Coated Sand, Zeolite and Envirofill
Infill is the material spread across the turf surface to hold the synthetic fibres upright, protect the backing from UV degradation, add weight and stability, and help with drainage and odor control. The most common choice is silica sand, a basic mineral ballast that is inexpensive and widely available. Silica sand works well for most residential yards, though it does not offer any special properties beyond weight and support. Coated sand is silica sand that has been treated with a polymer coating, which rounds the particles, reduces dust, and can be tinted to match the turf color or to cool the surface slightly. Coated sand is gentler on the fibres and is often preferred for pet areas and high-traffic zones.
Zeolite is a porous mineral that absorbs and neutralizes odors and moisture, making it popular for pet turf and dog run installation where urine odor is a concern. Some manufacturers combine zeolite with sand or offer antimicrobial and cooling coated infills sold under trade names such as Envirofill, which add properties like odor control, cooling or antibacterial action. These specialty infills cost more than basic silica sand but can be worth the investment in pet areas, playgrounds or pool surrounds where durability and odor control matter. Crumb rubber (recycled tire material) is sometimes used in sports fields and gyms where impact absorption is the goal, but it is not recommended for residential yards or pet areas because it retains heat, can migrate, and raises maintenance and replacement concerns. Ask your installer what infill type and brand they recommend for your specific use, and get the choice in writing.
How Much Infill Artificial Grass Needs, and Why
Infill is specified by weight in pounds per square foot (psf), a measure that tells you how much material is spread across the turf to hold the fibres upright and provide the ballast the backing needs. Too little infill is one of the most common shortcuts in cheap installations: the turf may look acceptable at first, but the fibres will bend over, the backing will be exposed to UV, drainage will suffer, and odor will build up. The amount of infill required depends on the turf product itself, the pile height, the fibre type, and the intended use. Most residential turf is installed with infill ranging from 1.5 to 2.5 psf, though some high-performance or heavily used products may call for more. Pet areas often benefit from additional infill to help with weight and drainage. A putting green or sports surface may have different requirements altogether.
The only way to know if you are getting the right amount is to ask for the infill specification in writing before the job begins. A professional installer will tell you the exact weight per square foot they plan to use, based on the turf product and the site conditions. If an installer cannot or will not give you this figure in writing, that is a red flag. After installation, you can verify that infill has been applied evenly by walking across the yard and feeling the turf firmness and by observing whether the fibres stand up or lie flat. Uneven infill or too little infill will show up as soft spots, areas where the turf feels spongy, or places where the backing is visible through the fibres.
What to Put Under Artificial Grass for Drainage
The process of preparing the ground under artificial grass begins with removal of what is already there. If you have an existing lawn, the sod and roots must be stripped away so the base can be built on bare soil. If you have old artificial turf that is failing, lifting or melting, that turf and its backing are removed entirely. Once the ground is cleared, the site is excavated to the depth required by the base specification, typically three to four inches. If the yard has areas that are higher or lower, or if water tends to pool in certain spots, the excavation is graded so that water will flow away from the house, the pool, and any structures. This grading is essential in Midland, where hard caliche soil and clay layers can trap water and create drainage problems.
After excavation and grading, a weed barrier (landscape fabric) is often laid to prevent weeds from growing up through the base and the turf. The free-draining base material, typically decomposed granite or crushed base rock, is then spread in layers and compacted firmly using a plate compactor or hand tamper. Compaction in lifts (rather than dumping all the material at once and compacting it once) ensures a stable, level surface that will not settle or shift under foot traffic or weather. For patios, balconies and turf-paver strips, or for pet areas where cushioning is desired, an optional draining underlay or pad is installed over the compacted base before the turf is laid. On concrete or hard surfaces, turf is never glued flat to the slab; instead, an underlay is used to allow water to drain and to provide some cushioning. The turf is then unrolled, seamed, nailed or stapled, and the edges are finished.
Base Prep on Midland Soil: Excavation, Base Rock and Compaction
Midland soil is predominantly thin sandy loam over a hard caliche layer, a mineral-cemented deposit that can prevent water from draining naturally. This caliche, combined with clay pockets and the region's flat terrain, means that poor drainage is a real risk if the base is not prepared correctly. When artificial grass is installed on an uncompacted or poorly graded base, water pools in low spots, the turf develops odors from standing moisture, and the backing can degrade. The solution is proper excavation, grading, and compaction. Typically, the site is excavated to a depth of three to four inches, removing the existing lawn and any debris. The excavation is graded so that the finished surface slopes gently away from structures, directing water toward the street or a drainage area rather than letting it collect under the turf.
The base material, usually decomposed granite or crushed limestone, is spread in two or three lifts and compacted firmly after each lift using a plate compactor or power tamper. Each lift is typically one to two inches thick, compacted until it is solid and level. This compaction is not optional: an uncompacted base will settle over time, creating dips and soft spots where water pools and odor develops. After compaction, the base should be smooth, firm, and slightly crowned or sloped. If your yard has a history of water problems, standing water after rain, or areas where the soil stays wet for days, those issues must be addressed before the turf is installed. If drainage cannot be improved through grading and base preparation alone, the job may require additional solutions such as a French drain or a gravel trench, or the site may not be suitable for artificial grass. We will always be honest about what the site can support.
Artificial Grass Drainage and Underlay: Perforated vs Fully Permeable
Artificial grass itself must be able to drain quickly so that water does not sit on the surface and create odor or algae growth. Turf backing comes in two main types: perforated backing, which has small holes that allow water to drain through into the base below, and fully permeable backing, which allows water to drain through the entire backing material. The drainage rate is specified in gallons per hour per square foot (gph/sf), a measure of how fast water moves through the turf. Most residential turf has a drainage rate of 60 gph/sf or higher, meaning that a heavy rain will drain through quickly. However, fast-draining turf still fails if the base underneath does not drain. Water will back up under the turf, pool in low spots, and create odor problems. This is why base preparation and grading are so important: the turf and the base must work together.
For hard surfaces such as concrete, decks, or balconies, an underlay or pad is installed between the turf and the slab to create an air gap and allow water to drain to the edges. Without an underlay, water collects under the turf and cannot escape, leading to odor, mold, and backing failure. For pet areas and high-traffic zones, a permeable pad or underlay also provides cushioning and helps distribute weight. In Midland, where heavy downpours can occur seasonally, drainage is not a luxury but a necessity. When you request a quote, ask what drainage rate the turf offers, what the base material and depth will be, and whether an underlay will be used. A professional installer will explain how water will move through and away from your yard, and will verify that the site itself can handle the volume of water that Midland weather can deliver.
Seams, Nails, Edging and Power Brooming
The finishing details of an artificial grass installation reveal whether the work was done carefully or rushed. Seams, where two rolls of turf are joined, must be sealed with seam tape and adhesive so that water does not seep into the backing, the edges do not fray, and the joint is invisible from above. A good seam is laid with the grain of the fibres aligned so the direction and color match on both sides of the joint. The tape is centered under the seam, adhesive is applied, and the turf is pressed firmly together and left to cure. Visible seams, misaligned grain, or seams that are lifting at the edges are signs of poor workmanship. Nails or staples hold the turf around the perimeter and at seams; they are spaced at regular intervals (typically every 6 to 12 inches) and driven flush so they do not catch on shoes or create a tripping hazard.
Edges must be clean and secure. Bender board (a flexible edging material) or a secured perimeter prevents the turf from unraveling and gives the yard a finished appearance. Where turf meets pavers or hard surfaces, it is cut tight to the edge so there is no gap where debris collects or the backing is exposed. After all seams are set, nails are in place, and edges are finished, the turf is power broomed, a process that stands the fibres up, spreads the infill evenly, and gives the yard a natural, uniform appearance. Power brooming also helps the infill settle into the turf so it is not visible on the surface. If your new turf shows visible seams, lifted edges, uneven infill, or flattened fibres after installation, those are defects that should be corrected by the installer.
What a Written Turf Spec Should Include
Before any work begins, you should receive a written specification that describes exactly what will be installed and how. This specification is your protection and your reference if questions arise later. A complete spec includes the turf product name and fibre type (polyethylene, polypropylene, nylon), the face weight in ounces per square yard, the pile height in millimeters, the backing type and its drainage rate in gph/sf, the infill type and the amount in pounds per square foot, the base material and depth (typically three to four inches), the base compaction method, whether a weed barrier will be used, the seam joining method, the edging type, cleanup and haul-off, and the workmanship warranty period (typically one to three years on the installation only). The spec should also note any special conditions, such as an underlay for a patio or a pet area, or cooling infill for a hot exposure.
Do not accept a verbal quote or a generic estimate. Ask for the spec in writing, and review it carefully. If anything is unclear or missing, ask questions before you sign. This spec is also your guide to verifying the work when it is finished: you can walk the yard and confirm that the turf, infill, base, and finishing details match what was promised. For a free on-site measurement and estimate, contact Midland Turf Installation. We will inspect your yard, discuss the site conditions, recommend the turf and base that make sense for your needs, and provide a written spec and pricing before any work begins. A fully insured turf installation company will stand behind a written spec and will not ask you to guess what you are paying for.